Couture Techniques: Seamless Lace

This semester I have the priviledge to take a class on Couture Techniques. Already I've learned so much and have gained a newfound appreciation for the fine details of couture and high-end designer clothing. As part of the class we are compiling notebooks demonstrating some of the techniques with 10"x10" samples. One notebook is completed...two more to go. One of the neat new techniques that I learned is how to create Seamless Lace with careful planning and piecing of the lace. This technique results in a garment that appears virtually seamless.

This dress is a perfect example. The pattern is very large and there is certainly shaping in there somewhere, but it's not readily noticeable.

This technique is easy enough to do, just extremely time consuming and takes some planning in the cutting stages. Below are directions for how to create seamless lace in your next lace garment.

Seamless lace. Joining lace or embroidered net by hand appliquéing to create an invisible seam. The pattern is matched organically so that it visually appears uninterrupted. This can be done on normal seam lines as well as darts.

1. Thread mark the seam lines of the pattern onto the lace.

2. Plan where lace motifs will fall to create an organic design along seam line. Some motifs can be removed so that the seam line will not appear cluttered.

3. Allowing one full motif repeat outside the seam line, cut out the garment pieces.

4. Pin garment pieces together along seam lines, layering on piece on top of the other (both right sides face up). Baste if desired.

5. Again, plan motif design along seam line, creating an organic design.

6. Cutting right next to lace motif – no seam allowance on top layer, cut and whip stitch outer edge motif to under layer. Trim seam allowance of under layer to within 1/8”. Whip stitches should be closely spaced and catch bottom layer to join two layers together.

7. Press along stitch line to set stitches.

Note: Seam line looks less visible when lace motifs overlap the seam line from both sides – first one side overlaps seam line with a motif, then other side overlaps, then first side again. Also, if you find a bald spot in design, cut out a lace motif from scrap fabric and place where desired for organic flow of motifs.