Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Couture Techniques: Lace Insertion

Lace insertion is such a beautiful and delicate trim and perfect for those lovely antique laces that can inexpensively be picked up at an antique or thrift store. This would be a fun trim to add to a pre-existing garment - like several rows at the bottom of an otherwise dull shirt or dress.

Lace Insertion:

A piece of lace or openwork trim applied to face fabric of garment with face fabric under cut away after application to create a decorative open area covered by lace or trim. Created using lace or trim with two finished edges.

1.       Determine insertion placement and mark on wrong side of fabric, marking placement for only one side of trim. Thread trace design to front of garment if necessary.
2.       Shape trim where necessary using mitered corners or gathering with ease stitch.
3.       Place trim on front of garment along placement marking.
4.       Edge stitch along each side of trim. Backstitching or gauging down at beginning and end. Press to set stitches.
5.       From the back of fabric, cut fabric down center of trim, being careful not to cut trim.
6.       Press seam allowances to each side, away from center to create an open space where trim is.
7.       Finish seams as desired. (Ex. Turn and Slip Stitch, Hand Overcast, Zigzag by Machine). When pressing finished seams, press with strip of paper between fabric and seam allowance to avoid seam allowance ridge being pressed into face of fabric.

Note – Rows of lace can cross other rows of lace at right angles for an interesting decorative element. The under layer of lace trim can be cut back and dittle stitched to hide edges.

To Miter Corner:

Mitering – The diagonal joining of two edges at a corner.

1.    Pin trim in half at corner, folding trim straight back on itself (or two pieces of trim right sides together along ends).
2.    Fold trim down, creasing a diagonal fold at corner and forming a right angle at outer edge of trim. Press diagonal fold.
3.    Lift trim at corner and stitch on diagonal press line through trim, gauging down at ends.
4.    Trim the corner to reduce bulk, leaving a small 1/8” seam allowance.
5.    Trim seam allowance at corners to a point.
6.    Press seam allowance open.

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