Here is my mother in the most recent dress that she's sewn - a lightweight black wool mourning dress. I found this lovely wool at the fabric store where I worked several years ago and purchased enough for us to both make mourning dresses. Her skirt is box pleated and the sleeves are coat sleeves with horizontal gathering running down the back of the sleeve. We were able to remake a black silk bonnet that we had into a mourning bonnet, adding antique cotton net trim to the inside in large folds with black ribbon. A black organza veil is pinned in place with black pins.
We're planning to change out the shiny bonnet ribbons...we just didn't have anything more appropriate at the time.