1880s Bustle Pad

You may remember that I'm busy patterning and constructing an 1889 dress for my Draping class with Marianne Krostyne. For the understructure of my dress I constructed this bustle pad using the Laughing Moon pattern. I was really pleased with the way it went together. Hopefully the shape of it will look really nice under the skirt.

I made this bustle pad of a beautiful plum purple cotton sateen. It's really a lovely fabric.

I'm planning to add a row of knife pleated fabric along the bottom eventually. I have to purchase some more fabric first.

Silk Faille Dress c1887-89

Silk Faille Dress c.1887-89, Shippensburg University Fashion Archives.

Today my mother and I drove to the Shippensburg University Fashion Archives. We had a marvelous time looking at displayed originals from the University's extensive collection of historical clothing. The exhibit was entitled, "Nineteenth-Century Costume Treasures of the Fashion Archives and Museum 1800-1900," and runs until December 2010.

Can't make it to the exhibit? Check out the Exhibit Catalog at the website Gift Shop.

My favorite costume on display was this original Silk Faille Dress from c.1887-89. The color is a beautiful grey-champagne with black velvet trim. I would love to reproduce this darling dress if I have the opportunity to attend another 1888 Immersion Event (like the one I attended several years ago in Gettysburg).

Silk Faille Dress c1887-89

1888 Dress

The photo shoot this weekend went very well, so I have the first of three costumes to share with you. This dress is an 1888 dress based on a pattern in "Patterns of Fashion" by Janet Arnold. The costume was made for an 1888 immersion event in Gettysburg several years ago.

I'm very proud of the hat because I stitched the rows of straw together myself to save a little $$$. I'll admit, I was very tempted to purchase a hat from a milliner, but having the straw braid on hand, I set myself the task of stitching together my own hat. It was much simpler than I thought it would be, and I was very happy with the way it turned out.

Like originals that I've examined, the skirt has a brown polished cotton lining sewn into it with rows of metal hooping that can be tied into a semi-circular shape to form the bustle.

At the event, spectators commented most on my train, tapping me on the shoulder to let me know that my skirt was dragging on the ground. Yes, I already knew that...it's called a train. ;)

1888 Evening Dress Design

::: 1888 Evening Dress Design :::

Okay, the design is complete! I've decided on a White Silk Evening Gown for our excursion to the Opera at the end of September. The dress will be a combination of White Silk with Pearl Beadwork and plain White Silk. It will have the flower swag across the bodice like the above picture, probably in pink and green flowers. And it will have the same bodice style as above but with buttons down the front.

I love the skirt on this dress! This is what the skirt will be modeled after. The train will be detachable and will have silk knife pleated underneath like this one. The skirt will also have the knife pleating underneath peaking out. The main part of the skirt and bodice will be in plain silk and the train and bustled swags will all be in beaded white silk.

And, I love this treatment for the back of the skirt - the huge flower swag. My dress will definitely have this, along with some silk bows at the front with flowers tucked in. I'm considering making the bows black, but that remains to be seen. :)

I didn't feel like scanning my sketch, so you'll have to use your imagination!

Check out THIS website for more 1880s Evening Dresses!

1888 Gown Ideas

So, now I'm thinking about a Black and White evening gown? I have a ton of White Pearl Beaded Silk that would make a lovely bustle dress (or 6...yeah, I have a lot!). So I'm contemplating the idea of White with bold Black trim. I like the bold designs on these dresses. The Waistline of the above Worth original.

The waistline and neckline trim of the dress on the far Left.

The waistline and neckline trim of the dress on the far Right.

Just costume contemplations at this point! I'm changing my mind because I might rather save my red silk for an 1870s bustle gown. ;)

Bustle Evening Dress

I found my Dream Bustle Dress!

Just in time, too! Rosie and I have been discussing an upcoming evening at the Opera. I have some red silk and a long standing desire to have a red silk bustle dress with a train. I'd like to use the Truly Victorian 'Butterfly Detachable Train' to get the same style of train as this gown. Isn't it a beauty?

Memorial Day Reenactment Pictures

Currently we live on the grounds of a historic estate, in the carriage house. Each year for Memorial Day a Civil War reenactment is held right on the front lawns of the mansion. This year we were able to convince our wonderful neighbors, Josh and Kirsten to tag along with us. Josh is a very talented photographer and captured pictures of Vince, Kirsten, and I in costume.

You can check out pictures of our weekend HERE.

Living History Picture

Thought you might enjoy this image from a Living History event this weekend in my hometown. I was unable to attend, but my mother was there! She's the lovely lady in the ivory sheer dress in the center. Doesn't she look pretty? Always so authentic. The other couple are our friends Faith and Mark Hintzen, who you may also recognize as Atlantic Guard Soldiers Aid Society members.

The event was held in a cemetery. Members from our reenacting organization portrayed townspeople going for a picnic in the cemetery as a leisure activity. One member dressed in full mourning attire.

Wish I could have been there!

1888 Evening Dress

Making an 1888 Evening Gown?

My dear friend, Rosie, lives in Pittsburgh, where Vince and I will be moving at the end of the summer. She is an avid costumer, like myself, and we are already both scheming about what fun dresses we'll make together. Two autumns ago we participated in an "immersion" event in Gettysburg set in the year 1888 - the soldiers who fought at Gettysburg were coming back to visit. All participants had to stay in character the entire weekend. It was our first immersion event, and we had a BLAST!

So, in honor of the fun we had together dressing in 1880s clothing, we'd like to make bustle dresses to wear to the Opera in Pittsburgh for sometime this winter or spring.

Here are a couple images I'm looking at for inspiration. My 1888 day dress was made from the pattern for an 1887-89 dress from the book "Patterns of Fashion 2" by Janet Arnold (p.38). For a ballgown I'd like to reproduce the style of the dress in "Costume in Detail" by Nancy Bradfield (p.251-254) c.1885-87 Wedding Dress. I'd like to make mine of red-purple changeable silk taffeta.

For the pattern I'm considering the 1880s Evening Bodice Pattern (p. 120 C. Evening Bodice) from "Period Costume for Stage and Screen" by Jean Hunnisett. The c.1886-87 Skirt pattern (p. 127 D. 1886-87 Skirt) is also quite pretty.

My 1888 Day Dress had a built in bustle, like the original in the "Patterns of Fashion" book. It worked out quite well. It held its shape perfectly, was lightweight and very easy to add to the skirt. I may consider making a built in bustle for the evening dress as the original in "Costume in Detail" was made like that.

Mmmm....I think this one's really LOVELY!